Yesterday, I was sharing some of my latest Paris insights with a group of Paris expat residents gathered for Adrienne Leeds' "Apres Midi" get together, and one said "you should publish a blog" and I recalled I had already tried that, but never discovered how to do it on a consistent basis, or how to cause folks to tune in.
So today - it took me 30 minutes just to find out how to get back onto the blog - I will at least write something and, if I can, I will see if I can change my bio and my picture.
Yesterday I saw Paris through the eyes of my young Israeli cousin who I had just met for the first time Friday night when we both arrived in Paris that day(for me it was a return after several days once more wandering the F. Scott Fitzgerald and Picasso paths on the Cote d'Azur, and for her it was a first time visit from Israel )
Talya only had a few hours yesterday morning and at first wanted to visit a "small" museum. The Cluny would have been perfect - but it was closed. Tuesday is one of those days when a number of museums are closed.
So instead, we visited the church St Etienne du Mont (the Midnight in Paris Church).
St Etienne du Mont is not on the regular tourist track - not like Notre Dame - but it is a very special, beautiful and historic church. I actually prefer it not to be so well known, since one of the charms of such churches as St Severin and St Etienne du Mont is the silence in which you can meditate, or look quietly at the awesome architecture and artwork and sculptures without being interrupted by crowds - and definitely without such annoyances as electric cords to facilitate loudspeakers, long lines of camera laden wide eyed folks, and gift shops.
St. Etienne du Mont is the 15th century successor to the original church built by Clovis on that Paris hill in the 6th century. He wanted him and his queen to be buried there alongside St. Genevieve, the patron Saint of Paris. That original church resulted in the area being referred to as "Montaigne St. Genevieve" and the current church, across from the Pantheon, is on what is now known as rue Montaine St. Genevieve. It was constructed when the original church became too small for its congregation. The bell tower (Tour Clovis) from the original structure is now on the grounds of Lycee Henri IVacross the street.
Not only does the church feature the only remaining rood screen in Paris (an imposing and filigreed white structure ranged across and above the center), and a beautiful organ, but a cloister through which you can walk and, after picking up a pamphlet, view the details of the 12 beautiful hand painted windows that are along the cloister wall - put together from the remains of the original 22 windows.
On Sunday morning, I attended a mass at the church and discovered that the organist often continues to play for 10-15 minutes beyond the end of the service, for practice, fun, or just to provide an experience to the few (which that morning included myself and only five others) who choose to remain behind for a few minutes. It wasn't quiet music but loud and ranging up and down the scales with an energy and speed, alternating with areas of quiet, that was exciting and fun.
Talya and I then had lunch at Café Panis - my favorite café simply because one can eat, charge a phone, and observe Notre Dame just across what I call a sliver of the River Seine, while eating and drinking.
Finally, we visited the Memorial de la Deportation, the stark and stunning and emotionally draining memorial behind Notre Dame, commemorating the 200,000 souls sent to Nazi camps by the Vichy regime. From behind her, I took a photo of Talya sitting quietly on the stone in the courtyard contemplating the River Seine through the bars created by the tall iron pointed stakes at that corner. I think she was particularly moved by the corrider just inside the building, which is seen through a window with iron bars , extends to an eternal light at the other end and is lined by 200,000 crystals. I was also so moved the first time I came to this site, and still am each visit.
I also am grateful for the opportunity to know a relative I didn't know existed, since of the Israeli family branch, only my cousin Chickie, Talya's grandmother, had been in contact with me over the years - through a "Facebook friendship." I feel as if I have found a new, dear friend. I am sure we will keep in touch.
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